Fès

Fès el-Bali — Morocco’s spiritual and intellectual capital — is one of the most extraordinary cities on earth. Founded in 789 AD by Moulay Idriss I and expanded by his son Moulay Idriss II, the medieval medina is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the world’s largest car-free urban area. Its 9,000+ streets, alleys and dead-ends constitute a living medieval city that has operated continuously for over 1,200 years. The Al Quaraouiyine mosque and university — founded in 859 AD — is the oldest continuously operating university in the world. The Chouara tanneries, where leather has been cured in stone pits using the same methods since the 11th century, are best viewed from the terrace of a leather goods shop above. The Al-Attarine Madrasa, beside the Quaraouiyine, is arguably the finest example of Moroccan decorative arts anywhere: every centimetre of its interior is covered in zellij tilework, carved stucco and painted cedar. The Bou Inania Madrasa is the only Fès mosque open to non-Muslim visitors. The Mellah (Jewish quarter), with its distinctive balconied houses and synagogues, tells the story of Morocco’s once-flourishing Jewish community. Fès requires a minimum of two full days to begin to understand — ideally three, with a specialist local guide for at least one of them.